【走近香格里拉】- 神山梅里
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 之前說(shuō)過(guò),這次云南之行的重頭戲是<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-dest-18432-1.html' title='梅里雪山' target='_blank'>梅里雪山</a>腳下的<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-dest-18099-1.html' title='雨崩' target='_blank'>雨崩</a>村。而神山梅里也同樣吸引著我們。到達(dá)<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/gonglue/list-香格里拉-0-0-0-1.html' title='香格里拉' target='_blank'>香格里拉</a>后的第3天,原打算要去<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-theme-62-1.html' title='徒步' target='_blank'>徒步</a>虎跳峽的計(jì)劃,因?yàn)榛⑻鴯{停車(chē)場(chǎng)雨后塌方不能成行了。我們決定提前一天出發(fā)前往飛來(lái)寺,去拜訪梅里雪山。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 我們旅行一般喜歡自由行,不大跟團(tuán)。但這次為了安全和方便,我們訂了一個(gè)“獨(dú)立團(tuán)”,只有我們自己,說(shuō)白了主要是為了包車(chē)和安排雨崩村的住宿,行程還是按我們自己的意愿。和頭兩天住藏民家的目的一樣,我們選擇了一個(gè)藏族人開(kāi)的旅行社。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 我們的司機(jī)叫拖頂次仁(拖頂,大海的意思)。之前在一篇<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/youji/' title='游記' target='_blank'>游記</a>中得知他是一位退役軍人,曾在旅途中不顧安危救助其他車(chē)在事故中遇險(xiǎn)的旅客。小時(shí)候?qū)娙司陀幸环N崇拜,而這個(gè)故事讓我更認(rèn)定了跟他的車(chē)。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 早飯有老爸現(xiàn)擠的牛奶和哥哥做的蛋炒飯,很好吃。還沒(méi)吃完飯,老爸過(guò)來(lái)告訴我們,托頂已經(jīng)在院子外面等我們了。第一眼見(jiàn)到站在<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-theme-124-1.html' title='越野' target='_blank'>越野</a>車(chē)前面的拖頂,身穿迷彩褲,深色T恤,戴著墨鏡,些許的靦腆蓋不住一身的英氣。那天剛好是端午節(jié),拖頂告訴我們伊拉草原上有慶?;顒?dòng),可以先帶我們?nèi)タ匆粫?huì)兒再去飛來(lái)寺。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 早就聽(tīng)說(shuō)梅里雪山一帶氣候多變,神山常常是躲在云霧中,不知道我們這回能有幸見(jiàn)到那個(gè)傳奇的卡瓦格博嗎?</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">(下面文字來(lái)自百度)</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 卡瓦格博峰(Kawakarpo),梅里雪山主峰,藏區(qū)八大神山之首,處于世界聞名“三江并流”地區(qū),海拔6740米,是云南省的第一高峰,是全世界公認(rèn)為最美麗的雪山,被譽(yù)為“雪山之神”。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">卡瓦格博 - 藏文經(jīng)典中稱其為“絨贊卡瓦格博”,漢語(yǔ)意為“河谷地帶險(xiǎn)峻雄偉的白雪山峰”。在藏族語(yǔ)意里,所謂卡瓦格博,不單指最高的山峰,而是統(tǒng)指聳立的數(shù)座雪峰。在藏傳佛教里,卡瓦格博贊神傳說(shuō)是噶舉派的保護(hù)神,位居藏區(qū)八大神山之首。卡瓦格博峰是云南省六個(gè)國(guó)家級(jí)重點(diǎn)風(fēng)景區(qū)內(nèi)“三江并流”景觀之一。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 卡瓦格博峰如今仍是一座處女峰。早在1902年,英國(guó)<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-theme-2-1.html' title='登山' target='_blank'>登山</a>隊(duì)就曾首次挑戰(zhàn)卡格博峰。自1987-1996年,日本、美國(guó)及中日聯(lián)合登山隊(duì)相繼向卡格博峰發(fā)起挑戰(zhàn),均敗下陣來(lái)。 1990年11月至1991年1月, 17名中日聯(lián)合登山隊(duì)員試圖登頂,結(jié)果全部罹難,成為世界登山史上的第二大慘案。17名勇士的遺骸直到1998年7月才被上山采藥的當(dāng)?shù)夭孛癜l(fā)現(xiàn)。據(jù)推測(cè),是1991年1月3日晚至1月4日突發(fā)的雪崩造成的。17人長(zhǎng)眠山上!</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 由于卡瓦格博峰的冰川是典型的海洋性冰川,它的不斷地運(yùn)動(dòng)變化使冰層非常不穩(wěn)定,容易發(fā)生雪崩。而從另一個(gè)方面,卡瓦格博峰是藏傳佛教的朝覲圣地,主峰卡瓦格博在藏族民間更充滿宗教意味,位居藏區(qū)八大神山之首。2000年,一個(gè)宣言被通過(guò),這座因信仰和文化而被尊重的山,將永遠(yuǎn)不允許被攀登。</span></div>
<div> </div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#1. 剛上路,遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)地就看到<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-dest-18630-1.html' title='石卡雪山' target='_blank'>石卡雪山</a>,灰白色的山頂已經(jīng)沒(méi)有了雪</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="1" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/GNC6MgT3.jpg" alt="1" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#2. 伊拉草原上的賽馬會(huì)</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="2" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/d5jie9kx.jpg" alt="2" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#3. 騎士</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="3" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/Ko2wF1M3.jpg" alt="3" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#4. 離開(kāi)伊拉草原就上了214國(guó)道</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="4" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/fFJK8Tey.jpg" alt="4" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#5. 沿途山坡上錯(cuò)落有致的藏族民居</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="5" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/MXqWAMF3.jpg" alt="5" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#6. 漂亮的隧道入口,一路上有好幾個(gè)</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="6" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/ig7a2D8y.jpg" alt="6" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#7. 橋梁更是不斷??磥?lái)這條路是花老銀子了</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="7" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/PyPnuwz3.jpg" alt="7" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 一路上拖頂放著藏語(yǔ)歌給我們聽(tīng)。剛開(kāi)始他的話不多,后來(lái)我告訴他找他們旅行社的原因,并表示了對(duì)藏族文化和軍人的尊重,他的話慢慢多了起來(lái)。拖頂說(shuō)他的普通話是在部隊(duì)學(xué)的。他的老家就在西當(dāng),徒步進(jìn)雨崩村的起點(diǎn)。10歲之前他從來(lái)沒(méi)有見(jiàn)過(guò)汽車(chē)是什么樣子,從第一眼看到汽車(chē),他就愛(ài)上了車(chē),那一年是中日登山隊(duì)進(jìn)山,為之后的登山做準(zhǔn)備。19歲時(shí)他離開(kāi)家走了很遠(yuǎn)的山路,坐車(chē)到云南成為了一名軍人。在部隊(duì)的三年他學(xué)會(huì)了開(kāi)車(chē),退伍后就有了他自己的座駕。他說(shuō)他現(xiàn)在的生活比小時(shí)候不知道要好了多少倍,家里有田有地,他并不需要靠開(kāi)車(chē)來(lái)養(yǎng)活自己,但就是喜歡開(kāi)車(chē)。拖頂不喜歡別人用“漢人”“藏人”來(lái)說(shuō)事,他認(rèn)為每個(gè)民族都有好人壞人,和哪個(gè)民族沒(méi)關(guān)系,為什么非要加上標(biāo)簽?</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 約2小時(shí)后我們路過(guò)這一路最大的鎮(zhèn)子:<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-dest-18632-1.html' title='奔子欄' target='_blank'>奔子欄</a>。在那里吃中飯時(shí)拖頂?shù)斤埖陮?duì)面的小店去買(mǎi)了條鐵鏈子。問(wèn)他做什么用,他說(shuō)是前一天遇到一輛陷進(jìn)泥水里的車(chē),他去幫忙拖它時(shí)把原來(lái)那根弄壞了。看來(lái)他是隨時(shí)準(zhǔn)備“管閑事”啊~</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#8. 奔子欄</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="8" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/mQwAWo2y.jpg" alt="8" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#9. 離開(kāi)奔子欄很快就進(jìn)入國(guó)家公園境地</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="9" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/S9dNogt4.jpg" alt="9" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#10. “金沙江大拐彎”,所謂中國(guó)四十大景觀之一</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="10" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/orU1Q8Vy.jpg" alt="10" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#11. 也稱“月亮彎”</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="11" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/UJCei1n4.jpg" alt="11" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#12. 國(guó)道旁的村莊</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="12" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/r1jrKSOy.jpg" alt="12" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#13. 為了防止山體滑坡,國(guó)道上有許多這樣的防護(hù)墻</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="13" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/Xj1EcLg4.jpg" alt="13" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#14. 再次說(shuō)明國(guó)道修得不易</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="14" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/uBHRDDHz.jpg" alt="14" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#15. 這一段是盤(pán)山道</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="15" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/0Tp56va4.jpg" alt="15" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 拖頂?shù)拈_(kāi)車(chē)技術(shù)沒(méi)得說(shuō),一路上盡在超車(chē),而且看似非常享受。我坐在前排,有時(shí)一個(gè)急轉(zhuǎn)彎嚇得我趕緊閉上眼睛,不得不“求”他放慢速度。而他總是報(bào)以微笑,稍微減下速來(lái),但過(guò)不了多久就又陶醉在他的速度中了。哎,到后來(lái)我也麻木了</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 2天前發(fā)生了一個(gè)嚴(yán)重交通事故,一輛卡車(chē) 從盤(pán)山路的上面滾下來(lái),拉斷了路邊的電纜,以至于我們之后的兩天在飛來(lái)寺和雨崩都沒(méi)有電和網(wǎng)絡(luò)。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#16. 就是這輛卡車(chē)。但愿人安好,看起來(lái)很可怕</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="16" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/wc7iyoBz.jpg" alt="16" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#17. 車(chē)行至白芒雪山埡口(海拔4292米,山頂海拔5400多米)</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="17" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/3uOv0f44.jpg" alt="17" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#18. 周?chē)性S多經(jīng)幡</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="18" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/zMvJs8vz.jpg" alt="18" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#19. 盛開(kāi)的小葉紫杜鵑在雪山前顯得更加艷麗</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="19" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/65cVU0W5.jpg" alt="19" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#20. 一路上各色的杜鵑花不斷</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="20" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/8EBnOLQ5.jpg" alt="20" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#21. 迎賓十三塔,就要到飛來(lái)寺了</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="21" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/EXizgCiz.jpg" alt="21" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#22. 第一眼看到梅里雪山的主峰卡瓦格博,如此安詳</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="22" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/bf0NHvK5.jpg" alt="22" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#23. 大氣</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="23" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/HxH0ancA.jpg" alt="23" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#24. 卡瓦格博左邊的神女峰更是驚艷</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="24" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/ePpdCfD5.jpg" alt="24" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#25. 梅里雪山的層層山巒沐浴在日光下</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="25" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/L86r475A.jpg" alt="25" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#26. 疊疊經(jīng)幡</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="26" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/gqNDw0x5.jpg" alt="26" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#27. 向神女祈禱</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="27" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/j1c4qKr6.jpg" alt="27" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#28. <span style="font-size: large;">酒店陽(yáng)臺(tái)上的風(fēng)景</span></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"><img title="29" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/QiThSCSA.jpg" alt="29" /><br /></span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;">#29. <span style="font-size: large;">香火中又承載著多少美好愿望?但愿都能實(shí)現(xiàn)</span>酒店陽(yáng)臺(tái)上的風(fēng)景</span></div>
<div><img title="30" src="/upload/UploadWorks/2015/03/21/show/n<a class='Replace_A' href='http://m.spinamrecords.com/huodong/list-0-0-0-0-0-AA-0-0-1.html' title='AA' target='_blank'>AA</a>vjuk6.jpg" alt="30" /><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></div>
<div> </div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 飛來(lái)寺就一條街,正對(duì)梅里雪山。因?yàn)槟莻€(gè)車(chē)禍,鎮(zhèn)上沒(méi)有電,我們乘天黑之前在街上找了家川菜館吃了晚飯。飯后回到房間里沒(méi)電沒(méi)網(wǎng),剛好早點(diǎn)休息。</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></div>
<div><span style="font-size: large;"> 明天早上能看到日照金山嗎?</span></div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>